Walk like an Egyptian

I've been reluctant to write about Cairo. People ask me about my trip and it is hard to describe the elation I felt without sounding like some possessed demonoid. Ironically Buenos Aires was a good transition city. I think if I would have headed straight to Cairo I would have freaked out. The noise, the grit, the people, the insane driving would have sent me straight to the hotel bed with cucumbers over my eyes and the 'do not disturb' sign hung from the door.

I fell in love. Cairo stirs your soul and repulses you at the same time. The people beckon you in and offer you tea, while at the same time men accost you shouting 'taxi taxi' or lewd comments. Everyone, from shop owners to tour guides, made you feel like you were honored guests in their home. I was trying to learn Arabic and people always appreciated my efforts and helped me with my pronunciation.

At the same time you have to give up any conception of time. Everything takes twice as long, be it a taxi ride or a trip to the shop. The traffic is insane. There is one stop light in downtown Cairo and no stop signs. Crossing the street means taking a big leap of faith that you will make it across in one piece. Taxi rides were in 30-40 year old cars and no one knows about emissions or pollution control.

The city is dirty. Once brilliant facades are coated in grime. It is easy to see how beautiful the city once was, but at the same time it is heart wrenching. The city is divided between rich and poor. Poverty is visible on every street corner. It seems almost inconceivable that a nation that built pyramids now farms by hand. In the outskirts of the city donkeys, water buffalo and sheep crowd the streets. While there are a lot of cars on the road people still use carts and bicycles to transport goods. At the same time my first night there was spent at an Ambassador's house.

I'll post more later about my adventures. I will definitely be going back, but this time as a vacation so I can see even more of what Egypt has to offer.